A Culinary Pioneer: Remembering John Ash
John Ash, the founder of the renowned restaurant John Ash & Co. and a cherished figure in Sonoma County’s culinary landscape, passed away at the age of 83 due to a heart condition after a brief illness. His children, Tyler Ash and Emily Ash Lamb, confirmed the news, marking the end of an era for a man widely regarded as the father of Wine Country cuisine.
The Launch of John Ash & Co.
In 1980, Ash opened his namesake restaurant in Santa Rosa’s Montgomery Village. His innovative philosophy celebrated local, seasonal ingredients, meticulously paired with wines from Sonoma County. This groundbreaking approach not only elevated the dining experience in the region but also positioned the restaurant as a must-visit destination for both locals and tourists alike.
Wine and Culinary Connections
Ash’s relationship with pioneering vintners like Merry Edwards and Joseph Swan led to the establishment of one of California’s first restaurant wine programs. By championing both French wines and those produced in Sonoma County, he created a harmonious dining experience that showcased the best of local fare, elevating the wine and food culture in the area.
National Recognition
In 1985, Ash’s impact was recognized by Food & Wine magazine, which named him one of America’s “hot new chefs.” This accolade propelled him to national prominence and laid the foundation for the relocation of his restaurant to the Vintners Inn (Vinarosa Resort) in 1987. Although he later passed the reins to chefs Jeffrey Madura and Tom Schmidt, his influence continued to shape the culinary landscape long after he stepped back from daily operations.
A Passion for Teaching
While Ash’s culinary exploits are widely celebrated, his true joy lay in teaching others the art of cooking. “He was really an amazing educator,” Ash Lamb remarked, emphasizing her father’s ability to connect with both home cooks and professional chefs. Whether through books or media appearances, he aimed to make cooking accessible and enjoyable for all.
For almost four decades, Ash co-hosted “The Good Food Hour,” a weekly radio show where he shared insights and showcased local chefs and restaurants, further cementing his role as a beloved figure in the community.
Advocacy and Culinary Achievements
In addition to his culinary achievements, Ash was a dedicated advocate for sustainable seafood and served on the board of Seafood Watch, a crucial initiative by the Monterey Bay Aquarium. His commitment to sustainability reflected his broader philosophy of responsible dining.
Throughout his career, he contributed to various publications, with recipes appearing monthly in The Press Democrat until his recent retirement. He authored six cookbooks, earning two prestigious James Beard Awards. His notable works include “Culinary Birds,” which won a James Beard Award in 2014, and “John Ash Cooking One-on-One,” awarded in 2005, alongside more recent titles like “The Hog Island Book of Fish & Seafood,” published in 2023.
Early Life and Influences
Born in Colorado on February 8, 1942, to Agnes and John Ash, he was one of four siblings. His culinary journey began at a young age, influenced significantly by his grandmother’s exceptional cooking skills. This early exposure to food left an indelible mark on Ash, who once remarked that his grandmother “never used a cookbook.”
After earning a bachelor’s degree in fine arts from the University of Arizona, Ash explored various careers, including product development at Del Monte Foods. His creative journey led him to study at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, where he honed his culinary skills. Upon returning to the U.S., he found his niche in the vibrant food scene of Sonoma County.
Legacy in Sonoma County
Ash’s contributions significantly shaped the culinary identity of Sonoma County. His pioneering spirit and dedication to fresh, high-quality ingredients inspired countless chefs and food enthusiasts. “He set the tone for what Wine Country cuisine should be,” noted chef Josh Silvers, highlighting Ash’s lasting legacy in the industry.
His humility and passion for cooking left a lasting impression on those who knew him. As Brent Farris, a friend and former KZST host, remarked, “With the passing of John Ash, Sonoma County lost a little bit of its flavor.”
John Ash’s influence continues to resonate, a testament to a life dedicated not just to cooking, but to educating and inspiring others through the joys of food.