Embracing Convenience: The Dried Pasta Dilemma
By the time you’ve put in a full day, crawled through rush-hour traffic, and faced an empty refrigerator, dinner can feel less like an enjoyable meal preparation and more like a logistical nightmare. This scenario is all too familiar for busy parents and even seasoned chefs, who often grapple with the demands of a household.
Box Pasta: A Chef’s Secret Weapon
Scott Lewis, executive chef at From Scratch Hospitality, shares a refreshing truth that might surprise the culinary purists: on certain weeknights, with three kids bustling around, he reaches for the convenience of box pasta. “It’s okay,” Lewis emphasizes, reinforcing that there’s no shame in this choice. For him, fast pasta doesn’t signify giving up; rather, it’s a strategic decision made in the interest of time and sanity.
Real World Dining: A Chef’s Perspective
Lewis isn’t just an accomplished chef; he oversees multiple kitchens and dedicates his creativity to Piattello, a modern Italian restaurant founded by Marcus Paslay. Yet, despite his expertise, he acknowledges the demands of daily life where dinner must be on the table swiftly.
Recently, we sat down with Lewis shortly after National Spaghetti Day on January 4. During our conversation, he delved into why dried pasta has earned a permanent place in his personal pantry. “It really isn’t that complicated,” he explains. “You just have to know what you’re buying.”
The Art of Selecting the Right Pasta
Lewis advocates for shopping at specialty stores like Central Market and Whole Foods. He advises looking for dried pastas made with minimal ingredients: typically just flour and water, or flour, egg, and water, highlighting the absence of unnecessary additives. Moreover, he prefers pasta extruded through bronze dies, which roughen the surface and improve sauce adherence.
Cooking with Precision
Water is also fundamental in Lewis’s cooking philosophy. He believes it should mimic the taste of the ocean. “Taste as you go. Once you go too far, there’s no coming back,” he cautions, emphasizing the importance of proper seasoning. When cooking pasta for his family of five, he typically prepares a single pound, mindful of both portion size and the cost of quality pasta, which can range from $8 to $12 a box.
To enhance his pasta dishes, Lewis always saves a few cups of pasta cooking water before draining. This starchy liquid is key in helping sauces adhere to the noodles and finishing the dish. He prefers to pull the noodles from the boiling water slightly early, allowing them to seamlessly finish cooking in the sauce. His secret? “Don’t be afraid of the butter,” he states, as a knob at the end helps bring everything together, providing that silky texture crucial for a well-emulsified sauce.
Quality Ingredients Over Complexity
Lewis’s cooking philosophy reflects a broader approach grounded in respect for ingredients. His marinara, for example, is strikingly simple—consisting of garlic, onion, high-quality canned tomatoes, and fresh basil. “If the tomatoes are good, you don’t need to do much,” he insists, inviting the ingredients to speak for themselves.
This unearthed respect stems from his strong relationships with local farmers and markets throughout Fort Worth. “You can taste when something’s been treated right. There’s care in it,” he notes, reflecting how quality ingredients make all the difference in the final product.
Comfort in Familiarity
At Piattello, you’ll find the care and dedication manifesting in dishes like Sunday gravy, a slow-cooked blend of veal, beef, pork, and sausage simmered for seven hours. Finished with rigatoni and topped with homemade ricotta, it presents a comforting yet indulgent dining experience.
Still, Lewis is quick to differentiate between the art of restaurant cooking and the convenience of home cooking. “Making fresh pasta is a labor of love. But after a long day, with kids running around, sometimes you just need to make something fast,” he reflects.
Learning Lessons from Early Experiences
This pragmatic mindset partially originated during his formative years in the culinary world, particularly under the mentorship of Julian Barsotti in Dallas, who opened his eyes to the merits of dried pasta. Taking a bag home to his family, he was astounded by their simple delight when they devoured the dish. “They were like, ‘Dad, this is really good,’” he recalls, resonating with the idea that if a dish passes the “kid test,” it’s a success.
For Scott Lewis, opting for box pasta isn’t a sign of compromise but rather an essential tool. It strikes a balance between preserving precious family time and delivering a satisfying meal. “We all work hard,” he affirms. “If you can put something good on the table in twelve minutes and spend that time with your kids, that matters.”