A Culinary Journey Through Tasmania with Chef Peter Gilmore

Peter Gilmore, the celebrated chef behind Sydney’s award-winning restaurants Quay and Bennelong, has expanded his horizons in recent years, finding inspiration in the lush landscapes and vibrant food scene of Tasmania. Having acquired a small farm just a 40-minute drive from Hobart, Gilmore has embraced the slower rhythms of rural life. With every visit to his holiday home, he immerses himself in the natural environment, cultivating fruit trees and vegetables, which he describes as a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.

Heartfelt Affection for Tasmania

Tasmania has captured Gilmore’s heart, particularly because of its close connection between chefs and farmers. In his view, the island’s seasonal produce is incomparable, making for menus that reflect nature’s bounty in a more pronounced way than larger cities like Sydney and Melbourne.

“You really see the four distinctive seasons in Tassie,” Gilmore explains. “In contrast, Sydney’s weather just fluctuates between hot and cold. The changing seasons bring a rich variety of produce, inspiring younger chefs to adapt to what’s fresh and available.”

This emphasis on seasonality is crucial in Gilmore’s culinary philosophy. He believes that the local, fresh ingredients foster creativity, which is evident in the sophisticated yet approachable dishes he creates.

Favorite Dining Spots: A Personal List

As a chef deeply entrenched in Australia’s culinary landscape, Gilmore has curated a list of his favorite places to eat and drink—from his hometown of Sydney to the burgeoning food scene in Tasmania.

In Sydney

Home Town Restaurant: Cafe Paci
“My favorite spot in Sydney is Cafe Paci in Newtown,” he shares. “I always start with their potato and molasses bread, but honestly, every dish there is phenomenal.”

Local Cafe and Bar: Ante Bar
In Newtown, Ante Bar stands out for its eclectic sake list and delectable shiitake pasta. “I find myself returning often for a casual, yet exquisite meal,” he adds.

Coffee Fix: ONA Coffee
Gilmore is also a fan of ONA Coffee in Marrickville for its delicious Dutch pancakes, while Only Coffee Project in Crows Nest satisfies his cravings for specialty brews, particularly the gesha variety.

Other Gems:
Gilmore recommends A.P House in Surry Hills for stellar pastries and breakfast dishes, along with Bathers’ Pavilion in Balmoral for a splendid dining experience with a view. He loves Regina La Pizzeria in Redfern for their hot salami pizza and Poly in Surry Hills for their sardines on toast and wagyu intercostal.

Best Eating Experiences in Australia

Reflecting on his recent culinary experiences, Gilmore cites his visit to Vue de Monde in Melbourne as a highlight. “The attention to detail was extraordinary,” he notes, looking forward to chef Hugh Allen’s upcoming venture, Yiaga.

Exploring Hobart

Favorite Food City: Hobart
Hobart holds a special place in Gilmore’s heart for its fresh produce and vibrant culinary culture. He has planted 60 fruit trees on his farm, benefiting from Tasmania’s ideal growing conditions. “The long maturing process allows for incredibly flavorful tomatoes and more,” he says.

Must-Visit Restaurants in Hobart:

• The Agrarian Kitchen in New Norfolk, renowned for its pasta and expertly cooked seafood, is one of his top picks.
• Ogee Wine Bar in North Hobart draws him back each season for its carefully curated menu, featuring ingredients like Tasmanian white asparagus.
• Trophy Room also in North Hobart, offers glorious dishes like poached white asparagus served with vibrant salads.
• For baked goods, his go-to spots include Six Russell Bakery and Scholé, the latter created by chef Luke Burgess.

Additional Culinary Stops in Melbourne

In Melbourne, he appreciates Cibi in Collingwood, where food meets Japanese craftsmanship. The layered experience of dining in such a creatively enriching space appeals to him. He also recommends Gimlet at Cavendish House for its stylish presentation and exceptional seafood.

In the Kitchen: Signature Dishes

When it comes to his own kitchens at Quay and Bennelong, Gilmore takes pride in crafting dishes that embody the essence of Australian fine dining. At Quay, his showstopper is wild abalone accompanied by sea cucumber and vinegared seaweed with koshihikari rice. At Bennelong, his choice is the Opera House pavlova—an Australian institution itself.

Cooking at Home

For home-cooking, Gilmore opts for a simple yet flavorful pork and fennel sausage pasta. “It’s approachable and doesn’t require extensive preparation, but the flavors are incredibly rich,” he explains.

Culinary Wisdom

In terms of kitchen wisdom, Gilmore reflects, “You are only as good as the produce you’re using, and nature is the greatest source of creativity.” This mantra guides him in both his professional endeavors and personal cooking.

Through his favorites and heartfelt passion for fresh ingredients, Peter Gilmore highlights the unique culinary richness of Tasmania, along with a comprehensive view of dining and drinking in Australia’s bustling food scene. The chef’s affinity for simple, quality ingredients creates an inviting narrative that resonates throughout his culinary journey.