A Culinary Journey Through the Eyes of Victor Liong
The Influence of Two Cities
Raised in Sydney but having embraced Melbourne over the past 12 years, award-winning chef Victor Liong is a prime example of how location shapes culinary expression. His renowned restaurant, Lee Ho Fook, epitomizes modern Chinese cuisine, earning acclaim in Melbourne since it opened in 2013. Recently, Liong expanded his culinary empire with a second venue in Sydney’s bustling CBD, nestled in the historic Porter House—a former tobacco factory with character.
A Dedication to Both Cities
Reflecting on his experiences, Liong expresses his dual love for Sydney and Melbourne. “I’m a Melburnian for sure, but since opening in Sydney, I am drawn to it again,” he says. His appreciation stems from the unique energies both cities radiate. In Sydney, he enjoys the vibrant atmosphere, while Melbourne charms him with its rich culinary heritage.
Culinary Adaptations
One of Liong’s ongoing challenges is adapting his menu to resonate with the different dining cultures of each city. While Sydney diners can still indulge in popular dishes from Melbourne, like prawn toast and lacquered duck, Liong is exploring subtle changes influenced by the warmer climate of Sydney. “The new restaurant is 80 percent Melbourne DNA in its identity, but with the weather being four degrees warmer in Sydney, the dishes will start to reflect that change,” he explains.
Where the Chef Likes to Dine
When he takes a break from his own kitchens, Liong has a well-curated list of favorite spots to enjoy.
Favorite Restaurants in Melbourne
Flower Drum stands out for Liong with its perfect stir-fry of pearl meat, showcasing the delicate flavors of scallops. “I remember feeling intimidated the first time I sat in that grand dining room,” he recalls, now a regular at this classic establishment.
Another gem is France-Soir, where he relishes the mussels and signature steak tartare, always finishing his meal with crème brûlée. “The atmosphere and food are flawless,” he notes.
At Di Stasio Citta, he enjoys pasta dishes, particularly the spaghetti vongole. The chicken liver crostini with a pickle is also a must-try. For a casual yet nostalgic experience, Liong loves Cumulus Inc., where he enjoys Aperol spritzes and recalls memories of his first date with his wife, indulging in oysters and snacks.
Favorite Cafes and Bars
Liong kicks off his day with coffee from St Ali, where he opts for a long black or double espresso, never in a paper cup. As for bars, Caretaker’s Cottage captures his attention with its delicious cocktails and relaxing vibe. His drink of choice is a wet martini, which he customizes with extra vermouth.
For takeout, he frequents Little Naples in Ivanhoe for a margherita pizza, but also recommends their Mister Billo pizza, rich with salami, ham, sausage, and pancetta.
Exploring Sydney
When in Sydney, Liong enjoys the welcoming atmosphere of Pina in Potts Point, where greens on toast with stracciatella once captured his palate. He also appreciates the culinary creativity at Cafe Paci, known for its precise cooking and great vibe.
Liong lauds Grandfathers, a new Chinese restaurant highlighting quality dim sum and exciting dishes like spicy husband-and-wife salad. An adventure at Fratelli Paradiso reveals an atmosphere rich in personality and impeccable food—especially the scampi pasta, a menu highlight.
At PS40, he delights in a signature Africola cocktail and is a fan of the lively setting at The Grounds of The City, despite its popularity among tourists.
Culinary Adventures Abroad
Beyond Australia, Liong’s travels have taken him to numerous culinary destinations that have left a mark on him. Recently, he dined at Infinity by Mark Best in Sydney, where he relished dishes such as stinging nettle risotto with squid. The grilled seafoam oysters were a standout, showcasing innovative flavors.
His travels abroad also brought him to London, where he visited the two-star The Clove Club and A. Wong, both of which left him inspired. Dishoom is another favorite for its vibrant breakfast offerings, especially the bacon naan roll. The modern Korean cuisine at Sollip captivated him, as did the iconic salt beef bagel at Beigel Bake.
The Comforts of Home Cooking
At home, Liong opts for steamed seafood, making a flavorful stir-fry with a range of textures and aromatic sauces. As a guilty pleasure, he admits to enjoying dark chocolate, preferably rich and bitter, and can rarely resist a custard doughnut from Laurent Bakery.
Kitchen Wisdom
Among the kitchen tips he cherishes, Liong advocates the importance of seasoning during every step of the cooking process. Sincerely committed to enhancing flavors through proper techniques, he emphasizes tasting generously throughout cooking.
Closing Thoughts
Victor Liong’s culinary journey through Melbourne and Sydney showcases the unique flavors and experiences each city offers. His dining preferences reflect not just his expertise in the kitchen, but a profound appreciation for good food and the memories associated with it.