What to Know About the State of Restaurants in Toronto
Toronto’s restaurant scene has always been a dynamic tapestry of flavors, cultures, and experiences. However, it has also been marked by a notable trend of closures, which recently made headlines with the unfortunate shutdown of two restaurants owned by celebrity chef Matty Matheson. Understanding the implications of these closures, as well as insights from seasoned restaurateurs, offers a glance into the challenging landscape of dining in this vibrant city.
The Closures of Matty Matheson’s Establishments
Matty Matheson, a beloved figure in Canadian culinary circles, has experienced significant setbacks in his restaurant ventures, with Bar Clams and Cà Phê Rang both closing their doors within months of each other. Bar Clams, an East Coast-inspired diner, was shuttered just a year after its debut in late 2024, while Cà Phê Rang, a collaboration with his mentor Rang Nguyen, like Matheson himself, has left a lingering cultural mark on downtown Toronto. Despite its popularity and homestyle essence, Bar Clams was criticized for inflated prices—the lobster bisque nudging $22 and fish and chips clocking in at $35—drawing concern about its affordability in a city known for its rising cost of living.
A Chef’s Perspective
Denis Ganshonkov, owner of Stop Restaurant, has shared insights into why some restaurants, including Matheson’s, struggle to sustain themselves. He argues that concepts must resonate with authenticity and practical pricing. “Bar Clams had a horrible concept,” he noted, emphasizing that the high prices didn’t align with the casual, approachable dining experience that a diner should provide. Ganshonkov candidly stated, “It had this strange idea that we’re going to connect you to Matheson’s roots… and you can’t do that.”
Additionally, he suggests that the location and market dynamics for Cà Phê Rang were challenging. The restaurant’s short lease meant that it didn’t have enough time to establish a firm customer base, often a critical component for success in the competitive Toronto market.
Navigating the Complexities of Restaurant Economics
The ever-evolving nature of customer expectations versus operating costs remains one of the biggest hurdles for restaurant owners. David Schwartz, a renowned restaurateur behind the popular MIMI Chinese and other establishments, remarked on the widening gap between what customers are willing to pay and the true costs associated with running a restaurant. “The gap is widening to the point where operating viably is becoming nearly impossible,” he laments.
This sentiment is echoed by the infrastructure of Toronto’s rental market, where a common five-year lease often leads to a cycle of closures. Many restaurant owners reconsider their financial viability when faced with lease renewals, leading to more establishments choosing not to continue. The pressures of breaking even can deter innovative concepts that could enrich the culinary scene.
Keys to Longevity in the Restaurant Business
So, how can restaurants thrive in such a challenging environment? Both Ganshonkov and Schwartz agree that dedication to quality and consistency is paramount. Ganshonkov advocates for humility in sourcing ingredients, emphasizing the importance of knowing one’s suppliers and remaining committed to product excellence. “You have to really believe in what you’re doing, and treat your team the best possible way,” he explains.
Moreover, Schwartz highlights the necessity for continual evolution in the restaurant industry. He urges restaurateurs never to rest on their laurels after a successful opening. “Staying relentlessly audience-aware and continually earning repeat visits is essential,” he insists. In Toronto’s fast-paced dining scene, adaptability without losing your core values can make all the difference.
The Human Element in Culinary Success
Ultimately, the restaurant business is as much about dedication and passion as it is about food and pricing. Ganshonkov concludes that fostering love for the work, along with recognizing the community involved in the restaurant process, plays a vital role. An industry where merely breaking even can be seen as a ‘good year’ speaks to the perseverance needed to survive.
Toronto’s restaurant landscape is one of continual change, where creativity must dance with practicality. As culinary trends ebb and flow, the stories of closures illuminate the intricate dance between ambition and reality that every restaurateur navigates.